Day 31 Aqaba and Petra
Oh My Goodness! Wow! Magnificent! Impressive!
On our arrival back to the ship last night Paul and I kept looking at each other with these big smirks on our faces…….I kept thinking to myself 'pinch me, I must be dreaming'. My heart is still beating a fast tattoo just thinking about what we experienced yesterday. Please; anyone thinking about doing this port or site, get your fitness levels up and just do it. I am sure you would not regret it.
In the morning the DP sailed up the Aqaba Gulf, heading north east. We could see Egypt on our Port and Saudi Arabia on our starboard. Ahead of us we could see Israel on our port and Jordon on our starboard. There must be only a handful of sites in this world where one could see 4 countries in one glance. Coming from the island continent of Australia this is certainly is a first. Gees we hadn't even left the ship and we are seeing something impressive!
We were the first bus to depart the port area and head for Petra. This is a big factor when we walked through the Siq and Petra as we were first from the ship to explore this magnificent rock-cut city. By the time we walked out, 2 hours later, hoards of our fellow passengers where still entering.
After leaving the city area of Aqaba, the bus travelled past the Wadi Rum, a remote region with some of the most spectacular desert scenery we have ever seen. We thought the Bungle Bungles, Kimberley, Simpson Desert and Flinders Ranges could not be more spectacular; however the towering stone sentinels and arches, and the cliffs of reddish and black rock are just as dramatic and impressive. This location was a favourite headquarters for T E Lawrence during the Arab Revolt in 1917. He fought a guerrilla type resistance against the Ottoman Turks in this area and much of the film Lawrence of Arabia was photographed here. Message to myself: 'when I get home, hire the DVD and watch it again'. I picked up this poem from TE Lawrence and thought it worth quoting:-
"All men dream, but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake in the day to find that it was vanity. But the dreamers of the day are dangerous men for they may act their dreams with open eyes to make it possible."
By the end of the war, the Arab army had liberated Damascus, with the help of Lawrence and other British officers. Prince Faisal was named King of Iraq, and his brother Abdullah became King of the Nabataean lands, called Transjordon. In 1950 the region was renamed Jordon. Jordon is now ruled by Abdullah's grandson, King Hussein, who continues to be a voice of moderation in a region known for extreme views.
On the way to Petra, the bus stopped at a scenic lookout where we alighted to view and take photos of Mt Aaron and Aaron's Tomb. Aaron is the brother of Moses.
After 2 hours travelling we finally arrived at our destination, one of the world's most impressive archaeological sites, Petra. 2,200 years ago ancient Arabian tribes settled in this strategic area and became known as the Nabataeans. (It was the cross-roads on the trade routes in the ancient days with a reliable supply of water). They were engaged in the caravanning business and became the undisputed masters of the region's trade routes, levying tolls, and protecting caravans laden with Arabian frankincense and myrrh, Indian spices and silks, African ivory and animal hides. The Nabataeans were open to outside cultural influences, absorbed them and added to them their own native touch. The rock-hewn tombs and temples were re-discovered by the first modern westerner to enter Petra in 1812, was Johann Burckhardt.
Our tour of the lost city of Petra began with the monument, Obelisk Tomb, an intermarriage of styles between East and West. The obelisk is Egyptian influence; the niche between the obelisks is a Greco-Roman influence and the triclinium is a chamber of three benches, Nabataean. The main entrance to Petra is an impressive long, deep and narrow gorge of colourful rock, dams, water channels and carvings. There are sections of the way which still have the original roman pavement; the rest has a rough cement surface which is a lot easier to walk on than the uneven pavement. I saw a fellow passenger sitting at the treasury, who had ricked his knee, and was undecided on how to get back to his bus. Another couple had offered their booked buggy but he seemed to be loath to take up their generous offer. We heard later another passenger had collapsed and needed medical attention. Although the heat wasn't extreme we found we had drunk all our water by the time we arrived back to the meeting point. Thank goodness the meeting point happened to be the Cave Hotel which sold ice cold beer! I don't think the $10 USD beer we shared, touched the sides.
Just as we emerged from the Siq we came face to face with the Treasury. It is the monument featured in the Indian Jones movie and is considered to be the pride and joy of Petra and the most beautiful. It has been deliberately positioned at the end of the siq for maximum effect and boy does it impact.
Past the Treasury, we came to a street of Facades, rows of Nabataean tombs with intricate carvings. We then walked further on to the theatre which looks Roman but was carved into the solid rock by the Nabataeans in the 1st century AD. It sat about 7,000 people. Further on we saw the Royal Tombs which were carved to house the tombs of Nabataean dignitaries. Unfortunately erosion has taken its toll on these exquisitely carved monuments yet they still look richly decorated and magnificent.
We walked down a gentle slope through the Siq and Petra the walking easy though thirsty. When we retraced our steps our progress was slower but not difficult. This is where some of our fellow tourists had booked buggies to return them to the top. I suggest to anyone who is concerned about their ability to return unaided, book a buggy at the beginning of the decent. Paul and I took our time walking back by stopping and sitting in the shade on the many strategically located benches along the way. Once we arrived at the open area above the Siq, we took our booked horse ride back to the top. Anyone who knows me, realises I am not the lightest person a horse would like on its back, however I was given a sturdy animal which carried me well. I did fret about the type of horse available to me and made a mental decision not to ride if my horse was not up to it.
This awesome and remote dead city is one of the great archaeological treasures in the world and is a must-see.
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